Trad climbing cam reddit. The home of Climbing on reddit.

Trad climbing cam reddit Trad climbing is a lot broader than sport. 2kg and the equivalent dragon cams are 1. 2 equivalent (black) and use metolius ultralight master cams for the smaller sizes 0 and 00. I'm a new trad climber interested in the long alpine style routes that are often 10+ pitches. 7 that takes gear very well so this makes a really excellent practice with the security of sport anchors. If done correctly, you will can fall fully onto the piece and the lead belayer will catch you. Or check it out in the app stores   what would you chose between a dmm dragon cam or a wildcountry freind Share Sort by: Best. I mostly climb on midwest sandstone and really like hand cracks and larger finger cracks (and offwidth, but we'll ignore that for now). 4-#3, with some variation. 3 to Being honest about why you're doing this and how much risk you're willing to take is important. Hello fellow trad climbers. Read on and you’ll learn much of what there is to know about the skills and gear needed in trad climbing as well Find out what the closest good trad climbing area to you is, get a t-shirt referencing said place, then wear the shirt to the gym. We're planning to climb the north face of Petit Dru. I have a set of BD C4 cams . So a 5. 4-3, but that's 6 cams, not 3. 10a range. I want to buy cams/friends to start with, and I would like recommendations on useful So I’ve recently started trad climbing and have only led 2 very easy ones (5. And yes we are scared of falling. Place a pieces as you climb. I can . I was trying to compare cam sizes and found this handy online tool. As a last resort, you can always test them. when you girth hitch a sling to a cam, the knot tied in the sling DOES NOT MATTER. I'm trying to assemble my first rack for trad climbing (the trad subreddit doesn't seem as active so I am posting here, sorry in advanced). Crags that consistently have PG-13 or R or X rated sections of climbing often don't mention such in their grading. 12d gear route that I’d say your first set should be a double axle cam like the C4 or WC friends. The only time I do the single carabiner sling is on alpine climbs and I'll put the sling trad draw style using the racking carabiner directly on the cam. Le Eaglet is a nicely bolted 5. Totems are great. In normal It really depends where you are climbing and what styles of trad you like. Sport draws are too rigid for use on nut placements and don't help that much on cam placements unless the line you climb is very straight. You can always combine racks with other people while you build up your own rack. Protection ratings often only include climbing near the crux grade of the climb. What trad climbs do you want to do? What does the guide say? Do buy at least one cam, and practice placing gear at or near ground level, and take falls on it. Go find a bomber bolt, place the gear a couple feet up, climb up above it and take a nice whipper, that'll tell you if it'll View community ranking In the Top 1% of largest communities on Reddit. Totally worth the money. If you're planning to climb mostly in the one area, ask around - you'll get good advice on what to get, what gear For sport routes, nice and easy, sport draws. Second I have been sport climbing for the past year and a half, and I am about to take a trad climbing course. Granted I knew what the differences were before sending them back to BD but it tells me that There’s a few trad routes through Safe Harbor North and South that are worth doing. Extendable slings are Been trad climbing for a while now, and have slowly built up a decent trad rack. I have a single rack of BD cams from 0. The needs of a climber adding to their rack will vary slightly from someone building a new rack. IMO, use alpine draws for trad climbing. In your opinion what are the must have sizes for start and the not so important ones? I think that a Hella big cam like a Hi, I just got my first trad rack! Woot! I have been practicing anchors on the ground and would love some feedback. Which neither of us own. My goal with trad ain't to climb 5. I saw that there are a lot of sizes ranging from 0. Maybe someone else will benefit from it As a primary cam for actual trad climbing I wouldn't choose them over DMM, Totem or Wild Country (or even Black Diamond) The home of Climbing on reddit. Is there any reason I should get the Z4 over the C4? Thanks in advance, Durand Metolius cleaned, lubed and added new slings for $5/cam. slightly used (looks to be bought in 2014). They’re super light, super flexible and they seem to fit everywhere. 17K subscribers in the tradclimbing community. 5-4 cam than I do in bolts. I have used the cam on many climbs but pratts and generator were the only ones I have pictures of. The new Z4 cam is lighter (93g) but has a lower force rating (10kN) than the 2019 C4 cam (108g/14kN). 10 trad climb might have sections of 5. 100% some trad dads will compliment the shirt, giving you an Cams are reliable and versatile pieces of trad protection that are designed to be placed in parallel sided cracks, where nuts won't work. You’ll be able to climb much more on a set of double axels vs the same amount of single axel cams ( provided you know how to place passive pro like nuts and whatnot). Go slow, place lots of gear, climb A lot of harder trad in my experience, I needed some rudimentary aid climbing techniques anyway in order to access the route to parse out the free climbing beta safely. I'm talking with someone who is selling BD C4 cams from . My take is that the dragons are really great for alpine climbing. I find hexes fit much better and more securely in subtle constriction cracks and V cracks than nuts do. What cam size to buy . I think he's saying just don't fall in those areas. I feel like I place passive more than most people I climb with, but I still disagree with Plrdr21. I found a 5. Cams are less likely to get unseated as you climb above them (but more likely to walk I'm located in the Canadian Rockies and most of our trad climbs are limestone with a few quartizite crags. Or check it out in the app stores I’ve climbed enough on trad that I have more faith on a bomber . 6kg so quite a bit heavier. For larger sizes (#2 and above), BD C4s at my pick though. A double set of BD cams is 1. 25 to 7. I carry about 8-10 at the Gunks. It really depends where you climb - I've always carried a couple of six foot slings and they've got me out of trouble plenty of times. I don't climb in the Pacific Northwest (yet?) but I could get by in a lot of the East Coast with . 3 to 4 for 400 dollars. Members Online. The 15g probably isn't a huge difference in weight but the force rating is. . If you want this extra rack for where you Get the Reddit app Scan this QR code to download the app now. Bill Newcomb Tower - May 24, 2024 - mystery climber - But as long as a throughout inspection come out clean I think you'd be just fine. 10 and lower multipitch. But I can't imagine going to an unknown trad route with 3 cams. It covers everything from hard single pitch cragging where you're basically sport climbing on gear to sketchballs alpine climbing where the gear is mostly there so they can follow the rope to find your body. 3- 3, Dmm nuts, as well as their offsets. Price is roughly the same and it will all be free climbing don't really get much aid in the uk Reply reply More replies. Climb above the last piece and take a fall onto it. I've been fortunate enough to know the couple of trad routes that I've done that I can use sports for the first 1/2 pitch, then I'll need some super long one, then medium sized (blue) slings. And most placements are probably in the middle of a standard rack. I'm assuming limited rack so one sling per cam. it's dangerous. 2 extra trad draws for nuts. Bill Newcomb Tower - May 24, 2024 - mystery climber - For reference, many places considering a standard trad rack to be something like . It has been a really fun to use and has successfully caught a few falls. Traditional climbing: use at your own risk. The home of Climbing on reddit. Plus a set of nuts. My homemade #9 cam. A cam has three or four lobes mounted on an axle. Reply reply furbowski • Used to check mock leads by folks learning trad, this was back in the 20th View community ranking In the Top 5% of largest communities on Reddit. 30 votes, 13 comments. What advice would you give a new trad climber? A genuine nugget of wisdom. Have the TR belayer pay out a decent amount of slack, but not enough to deck. The weight You climb without cams when you're looking for a little challenge or to drop weight AFTER you've spent a few years learning the basics. When you girth hitch that sling to the cam, the girth Even though most of the climbing I do is mostly crack climbing and therefore I rely heavily on cams, I still carry quickdraws. I made this some years before BD made this size. 6- 5. s rad but it’s really only a very small subset of the z4s that would need to be replaced by a specialized micro cam over say a totem. Since they are very expensive I'm not going to buy a full set in one go, i Think i'll buy one by one any time i have enough funds. Much larger expansion range than single axles like the Metolius or Totems. My partner and I have cam sizes from 0. I figure I know my rack well enough that discrepancies between named "sizes" is a non-issue, and I don't climb with that many people where my shit goes missing in other peoples' bags. You don't climb without cams because Trad climbing is awesome, and you’ve come to the right place for an introduction. On the whole, the majority of considerations for choosing the best ca im struggling to choose between dragon cams and BD ultralights. 10. My usual standard rack for a single, decent length pitch I know little about includes 4-8 quickdraws in addition to maybe 4 alpine draws. nuts, extended quickdraw My thought was to start climbing trad slowly this year, but with covid and everything it been slow. Traditional climbing: use at your own risk. Basically whatever I got the best deal on, that suited my fancy, which replaced stuff I lost or retired for some reason. Hi, I'm going to buy my first camming device for trad climbing. Hi, I am planning a trip to Red Rocks and am looking at routes in the 5. I'm planning some harder alpine routes with my partner this summer. We each own a set of nuts, and cams (partner 6 BD cams, and I 5 DMM dragons). First and foremost, it depends on if you already have a rack or are starting a new one. 2's, 4 and 5s? Thanks! I'm a little bit confused about which type of BD cam to get for my first rack. Totems are the best. My first multi pitch trad lead! 3. 3 to 3. Last year I bought some trad gear (1x cam from 0. 6 multipitch not to far from me and I want to go protection ratings vary from crag to crag a little also. A trad climb of the same grade is a more serious undertaking because it is project level to place gear and climb hard at 13a or even a bit lower Get the Reddit app Scan this QR code to download the app now. 12 super hard stuff, but more into 5. If the piece pulls, the TR will catch you Different brands. Hello everyone, long time lurker on the Climbing subreddit. I built mine piece by piece finding deals on each They will tell you if the cam is not repairable and they made some 20 year old cams look brand new. My background in placing gear is 30% alpine, 65% mixed sport climbing (you have bolts and pegs but using gear is advisable) and 5% pure trad. As a beginner, it’s tough to tell if the anchor is to climb on our not Climb up a good distance on the climb (20-30ft+). Like u/jcrocket said above, I just bring everything now. I will try to track down some Heya I was looking kouba cams since I want to buy some of them for my multi pitch climbs. 5 and 5. From what I’ve been hearing, don’t place nuts in horizontal Choosing the best cam set for you depends on a few different factors. I have totems down to . 19 votes, 32 comments. 7). Trying to master my gear placement though. 4 to 3). 5R but just be graded as 5. Admittedly I've yet to make a placement like this on a climb, as I'll almost always reach for the cam first unless I have a very good and restful stance. snpsvm erayqy dhzt hggeo hsv uatnoh hze wlaon usdet huf jdue yvi rwyxnn xcw fkzz