Climbing nuts vs hexes reddit. And yes we are scared of falling.

Climbing nuts vs hexes reddit What Is Passive Climbing Protection? Climbing protection, or “pro” for short, is any kind of removable gear that you slot into the rock to catch a fall. They come in a variety of shapes and sizes to fit different cracks and offer versatile protection. Smaller than a standard nut, it's used in thin cracks and old piton scars. I happen to love tricams for any placement where nothing else fits, or a backup when I've run out of a certain size cam or nut. Once I finally got out and started using some cams, I got hooked. The figure 8 is probably still good; but no one uses them anymore. I picked up a set of nuts and hexes that were mostly made by Chouinard. As noted by u/muenchener it might date from the late 70's but I suspect it's from earlier then that. The document has moved here. Fair enough in a horizontal break, then it's cams or tricams, otherwise its always a whacking great hex or a nice snug nut that makes me feel safe. Nuts=Stoppers Have a full set. A single rack of . Tricams have a reputation for being fiddly and slow to place, thus people buy cams instead. Mostly though, look at what you'll be climbing. One placement kills two pieces. The home of Climbing on reddit. But like all that shiny climbing gear, they are a tool that have their limitations. you learn a lot about how the rock works, and how to find a good stance to place from. Most nut placements here take offsets much better than straight ones. Jan 24, 2023 · Unlike cams, nuts and hexes are known as passive protection. Anywhere they work a cam usually will too though, so i don't use them too much, just once in awhile. Learn the skills to stay safe and have confidence when climbin Moved Permanently. These were fiddly to place for freeclimbing and tended to lift out but could still be used for aid climbing. Posted by u/Cmac1625 - 73 votes and 32 comments But with that said, I wouldn’t say towhook VW climbing webbing is a clear fight. Climbing nuts, also known as chocks or stoppers, are passive protection devices that wedge into cracks to secure the climber's rope. Their alloy offset nuts are also incredible. 3-1 (black->blue) weighs less than a #0. 40 votes, 28 comments. I own bouldering stuff (two pads); sport climbing stuff (quick draws & rope); traditional climbing gear (sets of cams, nuts, tricams, hexes); aid climbing gear (pitons, hammers, ledge, pigs, bashies, etc); alpine/ice climbing gear (ice tools, mountaineering axe, screws, snargs, crampons, deadman anchors, boots, specialized 31 votes, 43 comments. In Kouba, we understand specific needs of every climber, that's, why we offer ten different shapes of nuts and three different types of cams. You can hammer them into icy cracks. That being said, I love cams. Mar 14, 2016 · Or practice placing hexes in the small cammed position, then remove it and place the next size down in the large cammed position which should be the same size. In Valle orco, which is my go to climbing spot, thin cracks have a lot of constrictions and nuts work ok on them most of the time. I have a super standard rack, full set of WC nuts and WC cams from . 75. In the beginning of your trad climbing career you should focus on building a solid nut rack and learning to place them well. These are “standard” sizes to look for when first building your rack. Don't be afraid to hit them hard with your nut tool; they're very durable. Jun 21, 2022 · It's because hexes are best thought of (and most often used as) giant nuts (which can be used as cams in some situations), whereas tricams are best thought of as cams and used as such. We're more used to climbing on two ropes. I would get them before any BD nuts. That being said this method is not for the feint of heart. 5mm cord appears to be fairly common for this application, but use the thickest cord that will fit. Going back to your point on cams not being necessary below VS. Double Cap. Posted by u/[Deleted Account] - 59 votes and 44 comments To be removed from a crack, a nut will need to reverse the way it went in. If there are a lot of pin scars they can be useful. Still love the hexes for clanking up the old-school 5. WC do smaller sizes I think. 4-#4 black diamond cams, a full set of nuts (I prefer DMM walnuts), enough slings to place gear every 6-10 feet depending on route length, and maybe a pink and red tri-cam. Micro Nuts. If I was buying lumps of a rack in order of usability, I'd do it like this (assuming your already climbing with people who have racks and you own rope & draws): Nut tool, 3 locking biners (one jumbo), anchor chord (if that's your thing) . In the end for most use cases the halfnuts are probably fine but maybe not optimal. People learn with nuts, thus hexes get bought as giant nuts. g. It's hard to beat a textbook hex placement, and they do not walk into a crack like a cam. The same with those “double ended nuts” with different sizes on each end of the same cable. I have a friend who climbs in JTree a lot, and he swears to them so presumably there is a geological feature there that eats them as well. Posted by u/ProXJay - 2 votes and 3 comments May 29, 2020 · Hexes: Popular before the advent of cams, hexes are essentially hexagonal nuts. Unfortunately, my wife and I found the hexes just don't bite into the rock as well as nuts, so they walk out much more than nuts or cams. Posted by u/[Deleted Account] - 1 vote and 17 comments I'm looking to buy some cams/nuts/hexes for building top ropes and or rappels at Joshua Tree. The hooks on this specific vehicle are rated to 6k lbs so they’re a bit stronger than most webbing. Try placing your larger nuts in the regular thinner position, and remove and place the next size down in its sideways wide position which should also be the same size. Good places to stand and place and fiddle with a hex are good places to break an ankle. Also there has been talk about buying whole DMM torque set (4 pieces) to supplement our cams for belays, and save cams for hard climbing. I am always placing them before my BD nuts. Hexes are a great addition and I find that I use my hexes on about half the routes I climb. (Edit: just looked it up. . Totems are expensive but nice to have in the smaller sizes. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. A dab of wood glue in the "teeth" of the t-nut (the ones that bite the flat piece, not the threads) isn't a bad idea to cut down on the odds of it moving. At crags with splitter cracks, I obviously place more cams. Active pro refers mainly to cams, unless you are climbing a wide crack (called an offwidth), which might require the active pro known as a Big Bro. They don’t have any moving parts. I can confirm that they’re inferior to most other nuts. Trusting a cam is certainly easier than trusting a nut or hex. Just use your sport climbing rope with your friend's gear as you build your rack. 1. Tbh not much to choose between the two, both are great. The big decided is what kind of rock you climb and being able to see good nut placements. Which neither of us own. Often, a little wiggle will unseat the nut, enabling it to be pushed up and out. Take this with a grain of salt since I’ve never been to Squamish. Traditional climbing: use at your own risk. Nuts Buying Guide. My opinions about a cam is that they are quicker to place, have much more room for a poorly judged crack width ("pretty sure its the blue hex, fuck, nope, lets try the purple, fuck that's way too big, maybe if i spin the blue one in this direction, shit my arm is tired, damn legs are shaking Oct 28, 2016 · Trad climbing requires a large and somewhat complex set of gear that’s used instead of bolts to stop a fall. Although some people prefer to use hexes instead of the larger size nuts. Nuts/hexes - I don't own any hexes personally but they're a favorite to some. 4'-5' per length of cord, giving a loop somewhere in the 18" to 20" range is usually good, but this has a lot to do with your preference. If you’re not climbing much above 5. As ascensions become steeper and higher, it will be necessary to provide yourself with extra protection by wedging nuts into the cracks in the rock, therefore affording more Posted by u/Sigmund--Fraud - 29 votes and 71 comments We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. 3” for wedgeshaped nuts and 3. This protection, also called pro, is placed in cracks and fissures as you climb up, and then removed, or cleaned, when you’re done, so all you leave on the rock is a few chalk marks. You can turn a Dyneema hex into an ATC when you drop your belay device on a multipitch, can't do that with a Posted by u/PulpFiction849 - 16 votes and 29 comments Posted by u/scientificsax - 5 votes and 8 comments 1. While there are several different types of passive pro, including hexes, chocks, and Tricams, the most common type is the nut, also called a stopper. Posted by u/Horse_Glue_Knower - 5 votes and 29 comments Share gear, it's muuuuuuch cheaper this way too. Our climbing experts have been testing the best climbing nuts and stoppers for over 10 years and over 15 different sets. The DMM ones are the best on the market right now, in my opinion. For a university rock climbing wall, the chalk bag should still be useful. Active and passive placement. If you already have another set of hexes, you can cut the wires and resling them with >/= 5mm cord. Trying to master my gear placement though. I set my Rockcentric hexes as hard as I can and they have never rattled loose during a climb. Happy Climbing! I agree. Black diamond is the standard. Folks have explained to you the nut but the wired hex is older. Moved Permanently. Now they just stay at home. Nov 12, 2019 · As an emergency extender the dyneema works better (basically the previous point) if extending a nut. Standard nuts are the backbone of any traditional climbers rack. I think the torque nuts are a cool design and if I was wealthy I'd probably get some. A micro nut is used where no other protection will fit. That being said, stacks like this were used in clean aid climbing in the 90s. Typically you wont need them unless a route description says so. Aug 12, 2004 · Interesting you trust cams more than nuts or hexes, I'm the complete opposite. Once I started climbing on gear routes that physically challenged my climbing ability the rapid placement of a cam became welcome[1]. 4 to 3 Abalaks seems like a good way to expand my rack on the cheap especially on the smaller sizes of active pro. Don't know anything about camp. 5 and 5. As both #11 nuts in both brands are about the same size. This! If you are doing TR only, they are my favorite hexes and you can set up probably any TR with just hexes and nuts - but they can be a pain to use in "cam mode" with just one hand. You do all the work to carry multiple pieces up a climb and then this type of stacking eats through your gear at a double time. I grew up climbing at the Lake and started off using hexes, nuts, webbing and some cordelette. They can be placed passively (like a nut) or actively (like a cam), depending on the orientation and features in the rock. First off is the rock secure than then you need to look at how well the device sits in the shape of crack. The rest of the nuts will slide to the bottom of the carabiner as you're inserting the piece. You'll need draws (standard quickdraws will do if you have em from sport climbing with spare slings to extend them if needed or alpine draws if you're buying from new) as well as slings and lockers. I like hexes. 5->3), a set of hexes and a standard set of nuts. You'll find in the UK, most climbers skip the cams for their first rack and will opt for hexes instead as they are cheaper and work very similarly to nuts. But the dmm offset nuts are great. So I’ve recently started trad climbing and have only led 2 very easy ones (5. you can supplement with bigger or smaller gear if you need to. Came across these old (70s?) Chouinard nuts and hexes on Craigslist. bnilf yzpum hcni byzein jjkxf skmcgy oajtx amou ibil udfi gxjga ijvkc cesp harv flml